Portugal 0: riding around Portugal's edges on a KTM 300 two-stroke
Why "Portugal 0"
Portugal is a rectangle. Ride around its edges and the line on the map closes into a zero. That was the idea: to circle the country along its borders and coast, away from tarmac and cities, on trails, watercourses and old cobbled roads. Alone, on a KTM 300 EXC two-stroke. Only on the second-to-last day did I have company.
Days 1 and 2 · Trás-os-Montes
"The people of Trás-os-Montes are genuinely kind. They offer without being asked. And if you ask, they offer twice as much."
I knew the ground, and it still surprised me. The trails led to open landscapes with distant horizons and to narrow, technical passages full of detail. On the first day I spotted a fox, several rabbits and partridges, rode through pine and oak woods, and followed several streams in the shade of alders.
I reached Soutelinho da Raia around 4 pm to find the village in turmoil: the GNR, its GIPS rescue unit and the fire brigade, with dogs and drones, were searching for a missing woman and asked if I had seen her.
With nowhere to stay nearby, I pitched my tent on the lawn of the school playground. Like many around here, it is no longer a school, just a building. I froze: I had picked the wrong sleeping bag. That day I met the family who run the Rampa JB restaurant, Verónica, João and their children, and Leandro, a local enduro rider, who gave me tips and told me about the Rota da Castanheira.
Day two ran over tracks I know well: my fourth time here on an enduro bike, and as many again by bicycle. Well-kept farm tracks let you ride fast and safely, and the streams and high ground break the monotony with single tracks. The highlights were crossing Montesinho Natural Park, passing through Rio de Onor and arriving in Sendim. Along the way I met two foreign couples in love with rural Portugal: "Our holidays are here!" I understand them completely.
In Sendim I visited Sandra and Susana, who make bags, coats and purses in burel, a 100% sheep's wool cloth. I slept and dined at A Gabriela, a restaurant with rooms. Everything here is traditional, and rightly so: there is one dish, posta mirandesa, the local beef steak, made to the recipe of Gabriela, grandmother of the current owners, Adelaide and Lurdes. It may have been the first place to serve it. It comes with rustic potatoes and a lettuce, tomato and onion salad dressed with the region's olive oil, and there was a homemade dessert too.
Day 3 · International Douro and the Côa Valley
"Portugal's trails are endless."
A full day, 219 km. First thing in the morning, the trail along the Ribeira da Piçarra, by the Douro, justified coming on an enduro bike. Then the Roman road at Lamoso, a lovely technical section, and the Calçada de Santa Ana, a spot not to miss just before Barca d'Alva. In Castelo Rodrigo I was sorry not to have time to sit on a café terrace.
Next, the Via Sacra on Serra da Marofa: a technical climb with images of Christ right on the bends of the trail. And at the end of the day, the icing on the cake: the Côa Valley.
Along the way, the group from the Vilarinho dos Galegos Association seemed to be waiting for me by the roadside with soup and a pork sandwich. I did not even have to ask. It was worth stopping to get to know them, a little of their lives and what they hope for from the younger generation.
I slept at Termas do Cró. The more remote, the better: fewer people, more time for you, better service, at an affordable price.
Day 4 · Malcata and the first breakdown
"However well prepared we are, setbacks will come. Meet them with a positive attitude and, if possible, make the most of them."
The highlights were crossing Serra da Malcata, climbing Serra da Gardunha and coming down the trials paths to São Vicente da Beira, and the last kilometres to Retaxo.
It was also the day of the first breakdown. On Serra da Malcata I broke 20 spokes on the rear wheel, perhaps from the speed and the rough ground, and the Tubolite heavy-duty tube punctured. It had never happened to me before. I should have checked the spoke tension. I had to get to a road and call a tow truck to Motobrioso, in Fundão.
It was the perfect choice. I arrived at 3 pm and was riding again by 5 pm: Mr Brioso, very professional and with everything in stock, sorted it all in no time. I now ride on a Bib Mousse and Michelin tyres, and I felt the difference. Brioso and Georgina Brioso were the people who made that day: goodwill and professionalism are a powerful combination.
I slept at Herdade da Urgueira, welcomed by Cristina, on an estate by a lake used for sport fishing.
Day 5 · Ródão, the PR4 and a night fishing on the Tagus
After breakfast from Cristina and Célia, I headed for Vila Velha de Ródão. At the Portas de Ródão, the Tagus was once held back by a natural dam, which is why rounded river pebbles lie across every track.
The trail down from the castle of King Wamba was waymarked, but so overgrown I barely got through. Too many routes in Portugal go unmaintained. Across on the south bank of the Tagus I went to the Conhal viewpoint and decided to take the PR4 down. Brutal: very technical, with steep descents, hairpin bends and steps. I had to get off several times and dropped the bike a couple of times.
Once out of the trail I went straight in search of rest, a drink and food, and found O Túlio in Santana, famous for fish soup with Tagus roe. I sat with two fishermen, Hugo and Fernando, and their friend Hernâni. Good talkers all, they invited me to go fishing on the Tagus that evening, by boat with nets. I did not think twice: enough riding for one day. We drank, swam, talked, fished, had dinner, and I accepted their offer of a bed.
A different day. I just let it flow. Unexpected, and it went very well.
Days 6 and 7 · Alentejo
"All we take from life is what we live."
In the Alentejo, tracks are being closed with padlocked gates. It is no longer just to keep livestock in, it is to keep people out, even on waymarked routes. It makes crossing the region ever harder. Even so, with persistence, I found some very interesting corners, and persistence pays.
On day six the highlights were crossing Serra de São Mamede Natural Park, the track from Marvão to Nossa Senhora da Graça dos Degolados, and the stretch along the Guadiana to the Ajuda bridge. It was a day of Alentejo plenty: pork trotters with coriander for lunch at Café Nicole in Degolados, and for dinner tomato soup with poached egg and figs, a full meal, at Adega dos Ramalhos. I stayed in Alandroal at C'alma d'Alentejo, a beautifully decorated guesthouse I recommend.
Day seven was 240 km. The morning was dull, with fields, straight lines, wide dirt roads and locked gates, but I passed Alqueva and rode a more interesting section before Monsaraz. To Serpa I used a mountain-bike track to avoid the gates. Lunch was in Santo Amado, a village right on the Spanish border: oven-roasted pork ribs with red pepper paste and migas, at Cantinho da Maria. In Serpa I stopped at Café Sevilha, run by José Troncão, the locals' beer house, which holds good memories with good friends.
The best stretch was from Serpa to Mértola on the GR15, through the Guadiana Valley Natural Park. The small hills broke the morning's monotony and there were far fewer locked gates. For dinner, fried wild rabbit. From what I saw on the tracks, there is no shortage of rabbits and hares there.
Days 8 and 9 · Lower Alentejo, Monchique and the day of sand
"It turns out I really like the Alentejo, the Lower Alentejo."
I took a few hours to see Mértola and had a haircut and shave with Pedro at Garage 43, who swapped Setúbal for Mértola. When I went to fill up I ran into the Lés-a-Lés motorcycle tour. The queue was huge, so I gave up, and understood better why I lost interest in these events.
With half a tank, I headed for the coast. Since I already knew Serra do Caldeirão, I skirted it and crossed the Lower Alentejo instead: great enduro sections over hills, fields and streams, with hardly any fences or gates. Lots of ups and downs, lots of bends, lots of riding, lots of fun. Along the way I helped Artur, from Guimarães, who was on the Lés-a-Lés with two punctures on his BMW GS. We put in three plugs and he rode on. He owes me dinner in Guimarães.
Near Monchique the ground gets rougher and even more fun. A pity about the eucalyptus, which leaves the trails churned up by logging.
Day nine was the day of sand. I rode the famous gas pipeline track on the Vicentine Coast, well known in the 4x4 and overland community for its long straights of loose sand. After dark I unwittingly entered private land through a gap in a fence I had not seen. Getting out was a comic episode, as there was security, and the GNR were nearly called. Common sense won.
Days 10 and 11 · From the Sado to Serra de Aire
On day ten I had to stop at a Chinese bazaar for a Torx T45 key to tighten the handlebar mounts. They have everything and open on Sundays. Later I also had to tighten the gear lever. It was election day and I voted in Santa Susana, a very interesting village.
I crossed the N2 road several times. The Pinheiros Redondos route that runs alongside it there is fast and fun, on white and red ground with mud puddles and some sand, among pines and cork oaks. I passed the Maranhão dam and its long, spectacular reservoir.
In Avis, the Avis Motorcycle Club welcomed me with a few beers and a good chat about bikes and travel. I talked at length with Francisco Oliveira, one of the club's founders, which supports the Travelers Event, a travellers' meeting held in the first week of September. I pitched my tent at the Avis campsite, had an ice cream for dinner and slept well.
The next morning, packing the tent, I found a snail inside. I rode to Ponte de Sor via Galveias, on fast tracks among cork oaks and pines, over hills only 260 m high that surprised me and where there is a mountain-bike centre I want to go back to. I nearly forded the River Sor, but there was an old metal footbridge and I did not risk it.
After Ponte de Sor I headed for Golegã, through the Santa Margarida military area, where I met Mr Abel, who herds the Army's livestock and told me cork is stolen from the Army there too. Lunch was snails at Café Central in Golegã, served with a smile by Mónica Abreu. From Golegã to Serra de Aire was a moment: I climbed to the top on a superb limestone single track, among holm oaks and Portuguese oaks, past old windmills.
A good day. I can no longer tell which were the best. They have all been very good.
Day 12 · A new tyre and the central mountains
"Often in life we should stop to solve problems. Other times we should just keep going, and they solve themselves."
The rear tyre was down to the canvas and had to be changed. Believe it or not, it was not easy. I rang Jomoto first thing in the morning and nobody answered. I went there anyway: lots of customers were waiting and the phone never stopped ringing. It took 15 minutes for anyone to see me and, although they had the tyre, the workshop manager said they could only fit it "in the afternoon". I soon realised that meant the whole afternoon, so I moved on. The solution turned up, as usual, along the way: at Full Tyre in Penela, Paulo, an enduro rider himself, had 140/80/18 tyres and recommended a Michelin Tracker. Five-star service, with enduro talk and coffee included. I was very happy with it. Take note of this place.
On Serra de Sicó and the Lousã I was lucky to pick a long single track all the way to the top. The central mountains beat my expectations, especially the smaller ones. I found the chapel of Senhora da Serra, set into the rock, and nearly ran into a pair of deer on Serra da Lousã.
A navigation error put me on a trail closed in by vegetation and, close to Mortágua, I fell into brambles, at low speed. A bramble got caught between the rear brake pedal and the frame. There was still time for a swim in the pool.
Day 13 · Caramulo, Freita and Arada
That day a friend from these adventures joined me. I had missed good company: you move more freely alone, but company is good too.
It was the day with the most summits: Pereiro (441 m), Águas Boas (881 m), Caramulo (1,075 m), Cabeço da Raposa (980 m), Pinoucas (1,062 m), Cruzinha (1,017 m), Janus (1,043 m), Abas (987 m), Pena (881 m). In Vouzela I refuelled bike and body with an extraordinary pastel de Vouzela. Tip: buy them from the day's tray, not the boxed ones.
The best was yet to come: Serra da Freita and Serra da Arada. How is it possible, near the end of a full loop of Portugal, to still be this impressed? Track after track, some hard, some fast, nearly all fun and with fabulous views. Around Pedrógão, near Pico do Viso, there is a stunning track I had no time to explore to the end. A reason to come back.
In Alvarenga, Sandra was waiting for us at Casa de Noronha Lima, a house full of history. A perfect stay, and for dinner a fine Alvarenga steak at Casa dos Bifes Caetano.
Day 14 · Montemuro, Marão and home
"Was this the trip of my life? I hope not. But so far it has been unforgettable."
So much in so little time. Portugal is immense in so little space. I left through the Alvão and came back over the Marão. I slowed down over the last kilometres to make it last.
The high point was the climb up the Marão, to 1,416 m. But make no mistake, Montemuro was one of the best ranges I crossed, for everything: landscape, tracks, trails, villages. I have to go back, as soon as possible.
I rode the way home on dirt as much as I could: across the Marão, out at Alto da Boavista, through Campeã and, suddenly, home. I arrived safely, missing home a little, but very keen to do it again.
The route, day by day
- Day 1 · 31 May Vila Real → Cimo de Vila da Castanheira · 197 km · Alvão Natural Park · Alvão, Padrela and Larouco ranges
- Day 2 · 1 Jun Cimo de Vila da Castanheira → Sendim · 187 km · Montesinho Natural Park · Montesinho and Mogadouro ranges
- Day 3 · 2 Jun Sendim → Termas do Cró · 219 km · International Douro Natural Park · Gardunha
- Day 4 · 3 Jun Termas do Cró → Perais · 164 km · Serra da Malcata Nature Reserve
- Day 5 · 4 Jun Perais → Arneiro · 35 km
- Day 6 · 5 Jun Arneiro → Alandroal · 250 km · Serra de São Mamede Natural Park
- Day 7 · 6 Jun Alandroal → Mértola · 240 km · Guadiana Valley Natural Park
- Day 8 · 7 Jun Mértola → Monchique · 224 km · Serra do Caldeirão
- Day 9 · 8 Jun Monchique → Alcácer do Sal · 237 km · Serra de Monchique · Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park
- Day 10 · 9 Jun Alcácer do Sal → Avis · 220 km · Cabrela, Monfurado and Cabeção ranges
- Day 11 · 10 Jun Avis → Batalha · 170 km · Serras de Aire e Candeeiros Natural Park
- Day 12 · 11 Jun Batalha → Mortágua · 183 km · Sicó and Lousã ranges
- Day 13 · 12 Jun Mortágua → Alvarenga · 166 km · Vouga, Caramulo and Arouca Geopark · Caramulo, Freita and Arada ranges
- Day 14 · 13 Jun Alvarenga → Vila Real · 110 km · Montemuro and Marão ranges
Total: 2,602 km.
What stays with me
The more remote the place, the fewer the people, the more time they have for you and the warmer the welcome. The landscapes took my breath away, but it was the people who gave this route its soul.
I would do it all the same, but on other tracks. And they are out there waiting for me, some better marked than others, but all of them calling.
Frequently asked questions
How long is Portugal 0?
2,602 km, ridden in 14 days between 31 May and 13 June 2024.
Where does the loop start and finish?
In Vila Real. The route crosses north-east Trás-os-Montes, follows the Spanish border south to the Alentejo and Lower Alentejo, comes back up the Vicentine Coast and through central Portugal, and returns to Vila Real over the Montemuro and Marão ranges.
What bike was used?
A KTM 300 EXC two-stroke enduro bike.
Where do you sleep on a trip like this?
The first night in a tent in an old school playground. The others in guesthouses, spa hotels, hotels, a campsite and, for one night, at the home of Tagus fishermen.
Were there breakdowns?
20 broken spokes and a punctured tube on Serra da Malcata, fixed in two hours at Motobrioso in Fundão. Later, a new rear tyre at Full Tyre in Penela, and a few loose bolts.
